Sevilla is far from being in the shadow of its big sisters, fellow capital cities Madrid, Barcelona and Valencia. As the heartbeat of Andalusia, the southern province of Spain, Sevilla and its surrounding areas are the homes (and in some cases the birthplaces) of the rich traditions of flamenco music, bull and equestrian spectacles, and the ever-popular siesta. Anyone who is bit by the Sevilla bug will feel the effects for the rest of their lives. This is what happened to me when I first arrived here in 1998 and I cannot imagine what my life would be like had I never discovered this magical place. As Los del Rio sing (yes, the same group that sang Macarena), “Sevilla tiene un color especial”.

An eclectic mix of the traditional and modern, Sevilla is becoming more and more of a cosmopolitan city as is evident from the fashionable boutiques and internet cafes with their modern conveniences. These things are still juxtaposed with the old-world food markets, ancient buildings and family-owned shops. Business in Sevilla has a mix of family businesses that have been surviving for generations and newer national and international branches of huge companies now taking up shop in the capital.

Sevilla is a city inhabited since the earliest of times and is now one of the most popular tourist destinations in Spain. Its historic center is the largest in Europe and is filled with innumerable religious and public buildings in an incredible variety of architectural styles, making it somewhat of a museum city. A short Ave ride from Madrid (2.5 hours) and home to a thriving national airport, Sevilla is well connected to Spain and the rest of Europe. The city truly comes alive, filling the streets with tourists and its own inhabitants, during its world-famous celebrations of Semana Santa (Holy Week) and la Feria de Abril (April Fair).

After living in Sevilla since August and working as an English teacher since October, I am happy to share my limited perspective on the topic as well as the perspective of some of my colleagues.

Most English teachers in Sevilla don´t come here for the pay. They come for the laidback way of life, the “do it mañana” attitude and the colorful ambience of the city and its outskirts. Someone once told me that Sevilla has more bars per square foot than any city in the world. That just may be true. Truth be told, nightlife here does not disappoint. And with the siesta still a built-in part of the Sevillano day, late nights are the status quo. I have found that lots of teachers in Sevilla have fallen into the profession because of their personal situations, meaning there are lots of wives and husbands of Spanish nationals working as teachers because it is the easiest work to get. This is how I started. I had some education background having worked in the Human Resources/training field in the United States. Shortly after our arrival in Sevilla, I fell into teaching English while marketing myself as a bilingual business professional to multinational companies. I now work for a travel company geared towards young people as well as teach 6 hours of extra-curricular elementary English at private schools on the side.

Median hourly pay for a new English teacher is 10 to 12 Euros and can be as outrageously low as 5 Euros. Those who come here without working papers and teach private class hours here and there are mostly in this range. Academies will pay more and most will compensate you for your travel time around the city. With most Spanish employees in the city making between 600 and 800 Euros a month, English teachers with a good amount of hours under their belt can easily fall into this range. Cost of living here is still fairly inexpensive. Real estate prices are climbing, but rents are still affordable. Most 1 bedroom places are still under 500 Euros a month. If you share an apartment with others, you can easily shift your living expenses down to 100 or 200 Euros a month.

Not all English teachers have their (TEFL) certification. It is required at most academies, but when they are in a pinch, this requirement will most often be waived, as was my case. Many of the teachers here come out of the TOEFL/TESL academies located all over the city, some even promising job placement upon graduation.

In order to get started as an English teacher in Sevilla, you will need to market yourself widely, by posting up eye-catching flyers all over the city and by handing out your CV to every academy in the city (get your sneakers on). Network as much as you can. You might start out giving private classes and then get a call from an academy that needs to cover a class. Little by little, this is how you will build up your repertoire. I have colleagues who now work over 25 hours a week and have had to turn away classes. If you are looking for the work, it certainly seems that there are plenty of options here in Sevilla.

As a new expat here in Sevilla (I moved here permanently in August 2004), my experience here has been wonderful. I have a Spanish husband, his family and many friends who have helped me to make the transition, but I have also found the expat community here to be welcoming. There is a good camaraderie among all English-speaking expatriates in Sevilla, both in work and social environments. Since Sevilla itself is smaller, the expat community is smaller. Most people know or have heard of almost all of the English speaking expats in the city. This is a nice feeling for others who like me grew up in “small town America”.

I currently serve as the Correspondence Secretary for the American Women’s Club of Seville, a branch club of the FAWCO (Federation of American Women’s Clubs Overseas) organization which sponsors various events for English speaking women living in Sevilla and their families. We have monthly luncheons, run a Book Club, and host seasonal events for members, like a Halloween Party and an Easter egg hunt. Our 20 Euro annual dues go towards charity sponsorships. We currently help support Buen Pastor Orphanage and Sonrisa de un Niño, a daycare for poor and single mothers. Participating in clubs like this is a great way to give back to your adoptive community as well as being an obvious opportunity to network and socialize.

I hope I have given you some idea of what life for the expat is like in Sevilla, specifically the expat English teacher. I suggest anyone looking to make the move here visit first and get a feel for the city and its character. Be sure you can deal with the summer heat, and make business and social contacts in the city before you make the move. There is also a wealth of information about Sevilla on the internet. Check out www.discoversevilla.com and www.exploreseville.com.

Sarah Gemba works for DiscoverSevilla, a travel company specializing in Sevilla information and unique excursions for the young traveler. She currently teaches ESL classes through the Center for Cross-Cultural Study (Centro Norteamericano), where she was also a study abroad student in 1998 and 1999. Sarah hails from Boston, Massachusetts, but now considers herself a Sevillana.